How Ukrainian designer Yana Smaglo and her fashion brand Nenya are transforming lives far and wide
Ukrainian designer Yana Smaglo founded her fashion brand Nenya to support those she left behind when she fled the invasion. Now she is transforming the lives of women far and wide. Stephanie Smith reports.
When Yana Smaglo launched her fashion brand Nenya in Yorkshire in 2022, her aim was to help her fellow Ukrainian designers by supporting their businesses, their skills and their creativity, to enable them to survive and rebuild following the Russian invasion, which has destroyed so much and displaced so many.
Today, the story of Nenya has touched the lives of people far and wide, people Yana had no idea she might reach by creating a hub of hope in the UK, using fashion to help rebuild lives.
She was in Kyiv working on her new collection when, on February 24, 2022, she awoke to the sound of bombing as Russia launched its invasion of Ukraine. She packed a small bag and left, travelling through Poland and Germany, until she was invited by friends to stay in Huddersfield.
Yana Smaglo wears knitted top from a selection at nenya.online. Photography: Carla Dominguez @by.carladominguez | Make-up by Bobbi Brown and Nancy Sheldon at John Lewis Leeds
Once settled, Yana, originally from Kharkiv, knew she had to help those designers and brands she had left behind. She decided to establish a fashion distribution company - called Nenya, which is Ukrainian for motherland - to bring Ukrainian brands into the UK.
She already had experience of working with large retail and wholesale teams, assisting companies with management systems for production houses. Following an article in the Yorkshire Post about her ambitions, she found offers of help and advice from local business people, who began supporting her with PR, retail and wholesale connections, advertising and design. She sourced stock and wholesale partners, and now also sells the clothes and accessories - including luxurious knitwear from dresses to lounge pants and oversized cardigans in soft caramel tones - via the website nenya.online, and has had pop-up shops in Leeds and London. “High quality items made in Ukraine with love and bravery,” is the tagline at the top of the Nenya website.
“What I didn’t foresee, however, was how far-reaching Nenya’s influence would become,” she says. “Beyond supporting Ukrainian businesses, I’ve had the incredible privilege of helping women around the world transform their lives.
“Some of my wholesale partners are established sustainable businesses with rich histories, but others are just beginning their journeys.
Yana Smaglo wears red strappy dress, £162, from a selection at nenya.online. Photography: Carla Dominguez @by.carladominguez | Make-up by Bobbi Brown and Nancy Sheldon at John Lewis Leeds
“Many of these women are starting over. Some have recently divorced and are rebuilding their independence. Others are launching their first shops, eager to take control of their futures and create something meaningful. I’m always happy to help where I can.”
Recently, Yana says, she was invited to Bruges to celebrate the opening of a new shop by one of her partner businesses. “I spoke with customers about our products, the values behind Nenya, our mission, and the ongoing situation in Ukraine,” she says. “What truly moved me, though, was when the shop owner shared publicly how much I had inspired her. She told everyone that I had encouraged her to take the leap into a new chapter of her life and turn her dreams into reality.”
At the moment, there are five brands in Nenya’s portfolio, offering women’s knitwear and other clothing, and footwear. “Every piece is proudly made in Ukraine, showcasing the country's craftsmanship and resilience,” Yana says.
“All five brands trace their origins to Kharkiv, Ukraine’s second-largest city, which continues to endure relentless daily attacks. Despite these challenges, the brands have adapted to sustain their operations. Three have relocated to western Ukraine, one has established its base in Kyiv, and one remains steadfast in Kharkiv, continuing production to provide vital jobs for local residents.”
Pink printed crew neck jumper, £120 at Nenya.online.
Yana says that the determination of these fashion designers and brands underlines their commitment to high-quality fashion, as well as supporting communities and preserving Ukraine’s rich industrial heritage during such difficult times.
Nenya sells clothes wholesale across the world, including to the USA, Canada and France.
Yana has been able to raise the profile of Nenya through taking pop-up shops at Victoria Gate Shopping Centre in Leeds and at Trinity Leeds, and to London.
She has continued to return to Ukraine to source and support designers and businesses still living in the war zone.
Pure Cotton Knitted Cardigan With Print, now £80 in sale, and top, now £60. At Nenya.
Yana says she wants not just to help her fellow Ukrainians at home survive and rebuild, it is also important to her that she contributes to the UK’s economy, as a responsible local resident.
“Living here, paying taxes, and supporting the economy is not just a duty for me,” she says. “It’s a way to build a better life, just like everyone else. If I am fortunate enough to stay here long-term, I hope to continue making a meaningful impact.”
Now she is looking to build on her achievements and grow Nenya further. “Nenya is gearing up to significantly expand its network of wholesale partners,” she says. “By actively participating in major international exhibitions, the company continues to explore new growth opportunities and support Ukrainian manufacturers.
“In addition to entering the Asian market next year, Nenya aims to broaden its portfolio by including more Ukrainian brands and introducing exciting new products. The company is also prioritizing representation in top-tier department stores and marketplaces across Europe, the UK, and the US.”
Yana clearly has big plans for the brand she established less than three years ago. “With a clear strategy and a commitment to showcasing Ukrainian craftsmanship, Nenya is poised for substantial growth, making 2025 a landmark year for the brand,” she says.
“When I started Nenya, I envisioned creating a network of loyal partners and customers. What I never expected was that this network would grow into a vibrant community of women supporting and uplifting each other. This unanticipated outcome of Nenya has brought me immense joy and fulfillment.
Loose-cut jumper, Now £100 in the sale, and trousers, now £80, at Nenya.
“It’s a reminder that, even in the smallest ways, we have the power to inspire change — not just in business, but in the lives of those we touch.”
Find out more about Nenya at nenya.online and @nenyafashion